The pre-collections cause us
anxiety. But not Chanel.
Or better not the Collection
Métiers d’Art; we are dealing with real daydreams.
Since 2002 (with these
collections) the maison has been celebrating important locations but especially
the virtuosity of the Mademoiselle and
Karl Lagerfeld’s suppliers.
So after Bombay, Venice,
Byzantium, Moscow, with the runway of the 4th of Dicember we went to
Scotland and exactly to Linlithgow
Palace of Edinburgh.
The Chanel’s passion for tweed depends on Scotland; Coco went there in the Twenties with
the Duke of Westminster. Moreover it must be added the recent purchase of the Barrie Knitwear, Coco’s supplier of tweed and cashmere knitwear (placed in a
receivership in August).
The foggy charm of the moor and
the tragic charm of Mary Stuart,
born exactly at Linlithgow Palace almost five centuries ago, have capped it
all.
In the courtyard of the palace -
lighted by ardent braziers - a triumph of tartan, kilt, argyle, Fairy Isle
sweaters, patchwork and stratifications - ideally suited for the great cold mixed
with chiffon and lace - has gone on stage.
The innumerable quotes from
Elizabethan and Suart age are wonderful: from hairdressings to caps, from
jewels to blouses with loose sleeves, from ruffs to feathers and pearls
incrustations.
In a charming atmosphere a
flawless Lagerfeld has paid homage
to names like: Desrues for the
bijoux, Lemarié for the feathers, Lesage for the embroideries, Massaro for the shoes, Michel for the hats, Causse for the gloves, Goosens for the goldsmithry, Guillet for the textile flowers and Montex for the crochet embroideries.